Eco-design, initially a mere trend, has now indubitably become a decisive parameter in the cosmetics world, with a very promising future. After an intensely creative year in the field of eco-designed packaging, what is the current status? Which are the most sustainable, promising avenues? What limits do we still have to overcome? Nick Thorne, Innovation & Development Director, Alcan Packaging Beauty, will share the experience of his company, illustrated by concrete achievements, and his vision of forthcoming developments in “green packaging”.

Biomaterials are now omnipresent in our daily life and are viewed with interest in many sectors ranging from packaging to cosmetics, automobiles to construction, not to mention the biomedical industry.

Be it the first biodegradeable polymers or sustainable bio-sourced materials, the sector is developing constantly : new materials, enhanced performance, increased production capacities, integration of new players.

The goal of this presentation is to take stock of the new materials available and the latest applications flowing from bio-based materials.

Jan De Roeck (1966) leads and coordinates from the Gent - Belgium headquarters the segment marketing activities for the EskoArtwork Solutions comprising of software, hardware and services for the print and packaging industries. With a general printing and pre-press background and a specialization in Graphic Design, Jan started back in 1989 with Barco as application specialist for digital image retouching. Over the past 15 years, Jan has held different product management positions developing a particular interest and experience in solutions and workflows for packaging and label designers, trade-shops and converters. Since early 2006, Jan holds the position of Director Solutions Management.

Packaging and label converters own the key assets to create high value-added products and services for their customers, the packaging developers. The structural design data of a primary packaging: bottle, glass container or carton box is the basis for new and complementary services that go beyond label of package production.

This paper will present a range of such services that will inspire packaging key players on a sustainable way of Design, process, cost reductions in the packaging supply chain, shorten time-to-market.

Jonathan Cohen is responsible for managing and growing the Surlyn(r) business in fragrance caps, cream jars and other cosmetic bottles and tottles, the Selar(r) PA resins for mascara and nail polish packaging as well as introducing new high-performance bio-polymers such as Biomax(r) PTT for compact case and cosmetic caps. He brings more than 10 years of marketing, sales, business and product management experience in the packaging, luxury, food, retail and automotive industries in Europe, the US and Asia pacific. Prior to joining DuPont, he worked in consulting for major consumer and retail companies and in product management at Danone. Born in Paris, Jonathan holds a MBA from the Yale School of Management and a Master in Economics from Université Paris Dauphine. He lives in Geneva, Switzerland since 2006 where he enjoys skiing, snow-boarding and hiking.

- New Consumer Researches and Insights on Nomadic Luxury and Sustainability.

- Why Sustainability really matters today ?

- Definition(s) of Sustainable Packaging and how to apply to luxury Perfume & Cosmetics

- Inspirations & Innovations to start the Sustainability Journey today.

Monika has worked for many years in the tube business at Neopac, and held various jobs within sales. The cosmetic market is very fascinating and gives her the daily challenge she needs.

In today’s competitive environment, our company has to be more innovative in product development, and more creative in design than ever before. Neopac is focused on surpassing our consumers’ high expectations and launching new products twice a year. Our latest product innovation, multi-sensory tubes, offer a completely new approach to tubes, stimulating the sense of smell with fragrant print, the sense of touch with brushed structures, and the sense of sight with unusual visuals, such as changing colours and photorealistic print.

Another focus is “Neopac going green”: We pay close attention to all environmental aspects during our product development including weight reduction, eco-friendly materials, UV colors/varnishes as well as new printing equipments that uses green power. For natural bulks that typically contain only a small amount of preservatives, our Polyfoil tubes offer best protection due to excellent barrier properties against oxygen, moisture and migration of colors.

Denis Keller graduated from the European School of Chemistry Polymer and Materials in Strasbourg, France, in 1998. He first was employed 5 years by PolyOne as a Technical Service Engineer for additive master batches and was responsible for Northern and Eastern Europe. In 2004, he worked at Toyota Brussels, Belgium, as a project engineer for plastics in automotive engineering, responsible for the evaluation of internal and external plastic parts. In 2006, he joined Ciba Specialty Chemicals Basel, Switzerland, as a Global Project Manager within the market platform packaging, and led global cosmetic and personal care packaging projects. In 2008, Denis decided to rejoin PolyOne and is currently Market Manager for Specialty Additives and Packaging in the Color and Additives division in Europe

Based on the « Peach Shampoo Concept » (peach smell, peach skin, peach colour) this lecture will explored sustainability and : Look ; Touch ; Taste ; Smell ; Hearing and the 6th Sense « Functionality ».

After gaining a HNC Polymer Engineering and B-Eng Polymer Engineering at the University of North London, Derek Hindle held positions as Product Designer and Senior Product Designer at Massmould Ltd where he was responsible for the design of new closures.  In 2001, he moved to Rand Worldwide as an Applications Engineer where he ran training classes in the use of Computer Aided Design software for large companies like Visteon, TRW and Caterpillar.
In 2004, Derek Hindle moved to United Closures and Plastic (UCP) as the Design and Development Manager. UCP is part of the Global Closure Systems group. GCS is a world leader in the innovation and mass production of closure systems for the packaging industry. In 2009, Derek was promoted to group role and became the Global Innovations Director where he is responsible for the facilitation of creativity sessions within the GCS group and its customers, covering the food, household, beverage, wines & spirits, pharma and personal care market segments.  The new ideas are then matched to solve real life challenges and issues. This process gives rise to innovations in product and process design that is shared throughout the GCS group to give their customers innovative new products and manufacturing processes.

- Personal Care Market products

- Some examples of packlication : Deo Roll On, Pritt Stick, Mascara Packs, L'Oreal Eye Roller, Cleanser Brush and Cellulite Massager. (Highlighting that the packaging is now a fundamental part of how the product works and feels during application)

- Collaborative Innovation

- In mold assembly technology : New moulding techniques that allow multi component products to moulded and assembled by the moulding machine, meaning now after assembly or work in progress

 - Stop the chicken and the egg scenario, working with formulation teams earlier to co-create new products.

Pauline graduated in chemical engineering from the Toulouse Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Ingénieurs en Arts Chimiques et Technologiques and holds a doctorate in analytical chemistry and the environment (Pau University), a post-doctorate on the dynamics of contaminants along the Aquitaine coast ; work on her thesis on the environmental impacts of metals in the effluents of household waste storage centres was financed by ADEME.

She has been in charge of cosmetic business and technical manager for France at ECOCERT since August 2008; duties include overseeing a customer portfolio during the certification procedure, monitoring the certification surveillance committees, technical supervision, the packaging committee and perfumer clientele management.

Ecocert references for the certification of ecological and organic cosmetics are a complete set of specifications that not only set standards for the ingredients (origin and process for obtaining them), the formulations and manufacturing, but also the content of labelling and the packaging itself. The criteria for validating packaging focus mainly on the recyclability of the packaging materials. As organic cosmetics are developing fast, packaging plays an ever growing part in the image of organic cosmetics. Ecocert, through a technical committee, is currently reflecting on a redefinition of the goals of certified ecological and organic cosmetics packaging. The following topics will be addressed:

- Description of Ecocert procedure for cosmetics certification

- What are the criteria for validating packaging for Ecocert certified cosmetics ?

- Status of Ecocert work on packaging

- Prospects for organic cosmetics packaging

Nicolas LE JEUNE, an ISIPCA graduate, began his career with the Jacques Bogart Group as Quality, and then Development Manager (1992-1998). After 5 years as Fragrance Development Manager for Lancaster, he joined Heinz Flaconnage France in 2003 as Technical Manager.

- Definition, description, origin.

- Water-base metallization process.

- Aspect, colours, transparency, graduation.

- Decoration over the metallization, silkscreening, tampoprinting, laser attack.

At the end of 2008, SGD launched its innovation, « Infinite Glass », the first 100% recycled-100% recyclable glass dedicated to Perfumes and Cosmetics. As part of an eco-responsible approach to anticipate and meet market expectations, the goal of the SGD R&D teams was to develop a glass entirely made of recycled materials while abiding by the aesthetic codes and functional properties of perfumes and cosmetics.

With Infinite Glass, SGD offers a 100% recycled glass made entirely of clear household cullet; the ecological impact is reduced to a minimum. This paper will enable us to take stock of:

- Brand uptake

- Ground covered since product launch

- Future prospects for this innovation.

As part of its eco-active development strategy, VPI is focussing its innovations on economical, effective and « marketable » solutions. Priority has been given to the use of collected, recycled materials with a performance – particularly aesthetic – that is compatible with the cosmetics and perfumes sector.

R’PET, in addition to its mechanical and chemical characteristics, provides scope in terms of shine and transparency. Food grades are used.

The technical challenge for VPI is to master this material, which was not initially designed for plastic injection, and to obtain a constant appearance.

A bottle of mineral water thus turns into two lids … That is, an “infinite plastic” approach.

R’PET solutions are thus the natural complement to SGD infinite glass and prove that complete, operational, good-looking solutions are available to our clients to create new, 100% eco-designed packaging.

5 fournisseurs complémentaires de la beauté ont réalisé un projet d’avenir : mutualiser leur expérience en développement durable, leur capacité d’innovation et leur éco-conscience pour donner naissance au produit de demain : NAYA. / 5 complementary beauty suppliers have succeeded in a forward-looking project : share their experience of sustainable development, their innovative capacity and their eco-awareness to give birth to the product of the future : NAYA

Prior to joining MWV in July 2009, Laurent Bourgoin gained extensive expertise in the fragrance industry working at S.G.D (ex Saint-Gobain Desjonquères) as VP Sales EMEA. During 14 years, he supported many of the fragrance industry’s leading brands including Yves Rocher, Puig, InterParfums, Shiseido, P&G and Beiersdorf.

The impact of customised fragrance packaging is essential for a brand to project its image, to differentiate itself on the shelf, and reach out to the consumer who is faced with a multitude of choices. Indeed, the purchase of a fragrance is an emotional process which allows a consumer to identify with a brand and the social message that it conveys. At the same time, a fragrance package is often considered as an “objet d’art” and is frequently kept as a collector’s item which implies that the aesthetics of the pack are an undeniable factor in influencing the purchasing decision of a perfume.

MWV presents innovative proposals allowing luxury brands to personalise the fragrance pump with tailor-made solutions. What was once a mechanical, necessary component, has evolved and become a discreet and refined, unique pump which, while integrated into the rest of the pack’s design, can add value to the final product.

- How can an SME adapt to the new sustainable development context ?

- The example of the Biofilter presented in 2009, developed with the help of Ademe

- Carbon footprint, methodology, difficulties encountered, results

- The main avenues of progress : the  materials used, particularly films

- How can measuring the carbon footprint of the laminate help develop good sustainable solutions?

- Can significant savings be made by changing laminates to different combinations of traditional films ?

- Benchmarking different present day offerings?

- Is sustainability truely about being green or is it cost driven?

How to optimise any packaging solution in terms of reduced costs, increased brand image and customers’ loyalty by improving the attractiveness, cost effectiveness and functionality.

Any packaging solution can be improved, even the most optimal ones. The design can be made more appealing and the functionality better: any tear strip can be made easier to handle and the opening more ingenious. The print can be optimised and the amount of material reduced. Korsnäs Packaging Performance Service offers unique possibilities for Packaging Impact.

- The supporting role of packaging in conveying brand values

- Statistical evidence that eye catching packaging increases sales

- The appeal of holographic optical effects (kinetic, reflective)

- Developments in the creation of unique holographic design

- Advances in registration control

- Using holograms with registered print

- The introduction of lenses in packaging

- Environmental developments within surface finishes

Päivi hold a Master of Science, degree in Chemistry from Helsinki University (1987). She has worked at Stora Enso for 21 years, specialising in product development, customer service and packaging safety and environmental issues. She is currently working as Director, Environmental Affairs in Stora Enso Packaging Business Area. She is a member of CEPI (Confederation of European Paper Industry) paper packaging chain Food Contact Strategy Group, Finnish food packaging coordination group, executive board of ACE (The Alliance for Beverage Cartons and the Environment) and executive board of Finnish Beverage Cartons Recycling Company.  She represents Stora Enso at different R&D projects on climate change and life cycle of packaging.

Thanks to sustainable forest management, forest area and volume are growing in Europe. Stora Enso uses responsibly and sustainably sourced wood as the main raw material of its packaging boards and has established environmental targets to reduce the environmental impacts. Produced from a renewable material, packaging boards provide an environmentally sound alternative to fossil-based packaging materials. The fibre-based materials have lower carbon footprint and act as carbon sinks during their life time. In the end, they can be recycled to provide raw material for new fibre-based products.

One cannot but witness that the current economic context are truly changing the world, definitely leading to new consuming habits, new economic behaviours, new global systemThe Beauty Markets evolution is a perfect symbol of this new dynamic. How Alcan Packaging Beauty has managed to integrate this new paradigm through its multiple dimensions :  globalisation and concentration of the actors, increasing awareness of sustainability, quality and expertise, and more than ever the more and more vital role of innovation? How deep innovation has been impacted by this global evolution? Definitely, creativity today has to exercise its talent with a new approach of market's expectations, starting with the real day-to-day and complex needs of end-consumers.

After 8 years' research, Promens has developed the first patented sterile distribution system in partnership with Avène Dermatological Laboratories (Pierre Fabre Group). Avène Dermatological Laboratories creates a technology breakthrough in dermo-cosmetics by launching the first dermo-cosmetics equipped with the D.E.F.I. System: Tolérance extreme is the only line truly preservative, fragrance and surfactant free. To achieve this goal, complete sterilisation is required and the D.E.F.I. system guarantees sterility before and during use. Promens has therefore developed and patented a closure system that keeps a sterile formulation absolutely intact, safe from any germs, during the entire time it is used.

Since the end of the 1990s the manufacturing industry in Europe has been challenged by fundamentally changing business conditions. On the one hand, the accelerating globalization of markets created a tight situation of competition. High-grade automation, innovative products and solutions as well as effective logistics brought a new industrial standard in Europe. On the other hand, the ecological awareness of people in industrial nations, particularly in Europe, has been increasing continuously. New production process, alternative materials as well as the economical and considerate consumption of energy and resources had to be developed and integrated.

In order to implement and live these principles pragmatically, rigorously and permanently, the general management of OEKAMETALL decided in 2008 to apply step by step the Toyota Production System to the own plants, well aware this would be a long-lasting and comprehensive process. The first step was to eliminate all kind of waste within the production chain. Rejected parts, setting-up-times, overproduction, production paths, material consumption and storage of raw materials, semi-finished and finished products have been reduced clearly./ This presentation is to show our approach and our first results on the “Toyota Way”.

Fabrice BARAVAGLIO est diplômé de l’Ecole Supérieure de Gestion et Finance de Paris. Ses onze années dans le groupe TEXEN l’ont amené à connaître le parcours de Contrôleur de Gestion du Groupe, Responsable de Production de CEICA INDUSTRIE, Directeur Général de CEICA INDUSTRIE et enfin Président Directeur Général de CCM. Il est PDG de CCM depuis 2002.

This presentation is about a particular equipment that removes VOC from gaseous emissions coming from TEXEN’s varnishing facility, CCM. This equipment, implemented mid 2008, uses a bio-filtration technology.

Since 2004, all TEXEN facilities initiated key actions in the domain of sustainable development. Participating to this program, CCM, TEXEN’s facility specialized in decoration of packaging components made of glass or plastic, invested in 2008 in an equipment to remove VOC’s from gaseous process streams. After a first step to select the most appropriate technology among 3 available, a bio filter was selected. CCM did preparatory construction works and the system has been up and running since mid 2008. Cost of the implementation and cost to run this treatment system will be addressed.

Michel MORIN joined Graphocolor in 1995 after 13 years with the Atomic Energy Commissariat in charge of process development and technology transfer to industry. For 20 years, Graphocolor has constantly worked on its processes to minimize the environmental impact.

- The recycling of mineral acids : capacity, recovery rate, CO2 impact

- Ozone-based end-treatment of effluents : impact on aqueous waste, water recycling

- Replacement of chlorinated solvents for degreasing by diluted phosphoric acid in the presence of ultrasound : advantages for the environment and occupational health

Developments and prospects :

- A pilot chain dedicated to process and product development.

- Replacement of nitric acid responsible for 65% of CO2 emissions.

- Purification and recycling of nickel salts for colour sealing.

- Conclusion and economic approach

Paperboard cartons being introduced in the late 19th century are not supposed to be seen as an innovation. New exiting converting technologies cannot provide a step change itself. Studying trends and the industrial environment we recognize that a high number of small steps are needed for the big step change. Based on hair coloration folding cartons there could be a way of integrating existing technologies (like automotive) and combine it with new exciting converting techniques and new industrial processes (like digital printing, on demand solutions, etc.). Market demands should be the driving force for such a development. Success can only be taken in a mutual way. The only open question will be, who are the firsts in the industries sharing a common risk to earn common profits?

Sustainable Development Policy as an integral part in the corporate governance: "Take Responsibility to Ensure Our Children's Future" :

- Sustainable solutions and alternatives for luxury packaging

- Environmental policy and social responsibility as growing elements in the consumer's purchase decision.

David MANDON graduated from ENSAM (1992) and holds an MBA (2004 to 2006). In 1994, he joined CER as New Developments Manager; in 2000, he became Technical and Production Director, and in 2006 he was promoted General Manager. During all these years, he has helped give CER new momentum.

Hot stamping has always been the stock printing technique for cosmetics and perfume packaging. Indeed, it combines all the qualities required for the luxury image that is indispensable on these markets. Hot stamping provides glossy, gold, silver and mirror-like appearances that give a product real splendour.

Progress in the field of machines, stamping tools and ribbon open up new paths for designers. New effects like a pearly finish, or effects linked to a combination of colours are possible thanks to metallic multi-colours and progress in hot stamped transferred images.

Eco-design and growing concern for the environment are also boosting interest in hot stamping.

Marc Gauthier graduated from MACI and holds an MSc in International Affairs specialised in industrial goods marketing. In charge of the Marketing & Communication service of Rexor, after being responsible for the commercial development of the company’s Graphic Arts sector, he developed considerable expertise in luxury packaging, and particularly the environmental issues linked to the graphic chain.

- The creation of a metalised carton/gift box :

- Materials : films, cartons, glues

- Process : sheet by sheet, spool/spool, gluing, extrusion

- Solutions to printing problems (statism, poor ink adherence, …)

The development of alternative solutions :

- Water-based, solvent-free glue, solvent incineration, …

- Reduction of film and paper thicknesses

- Bioplastic films : BlueLake : PLA, Cellulose, Acetate, Oxo.

The environmental limits of current solutions :

- Non-recyclable

- Biodegradeability / compostability : above all, a marketing pitch

- The future of surface film treatment : transfer

- Process

- Ecological advantages

- Costs

Gérald Martines holds a Master Degree in Physics, Engineering Degree in Mechanics and an Executive MBA from HEC. After working as Plant Engineering Manager at Renault (Automotive 81-85) in Paris, and as R&D Manager and then Group Product Manager at Knoll International (Office Furniture), Paris & New York (86-95) and 1995 to 1997, he was International Brand Manager at Skandinavisk Industries (Office Furniture) in Copenhagen. In 1998, he joined Crown-Risdon (Cosmetic Packaging) in Paris as Product Manager Fragrance Caps & Fragrance Pumps, and then became Sales Director Europe. In April 2009, he joined REXAM Personal Care.

How packaging is innovating new solutions to handle the ever more specific demands of today's and tomorrow's complex formulae. Through two examples:

- Lipstick mechanisms are evolving to handle softer, more volatile, more fragile formulae ;

- How airless packages and extreme closure solutions can protect fragile formulae with less or no preservatives.

The launching of new perfumes and cosmetics calls strongly on packaging innovation. Packaging is the direct contact with the buyer, a key to success !

The technical presentations of the packaging managers of brands singled out for a PCD Award will give an overview of the intelligence, skills, creativity, technologies and know-how, collaboration with suppliers, « tricks of the trade » used to meet Marketing requirements while respecting deadlines, quality constraints, sustainable development strategy and, of course, the budget !